The No-Nonsense Guide to Caring for Tomatoes

Because Getting Them in the Ground Was Just the Beginning

So, you've successfully transplanted your tomato seedlings without killing them. Congratulations! As a tomato mama myself, I know that feeling of accomplishment when those little plants are finally nestled in their garden homes. But here's the brutal truth - your work is just starting.

That's right, those tomato plants you've just lovingly placed in the ground need ongoing care if you want the juicy, flavorful tomatoes of your dreams instead of the sad, disease-ridden disappointments of your past (we've all been there).

Watering: Tomatoes Are Type A About This Too

You could say that tomatoes and I have something in common - we're both Type A when it comes to water. They value consistency and timeliness, and they will absolutely punish you for not following through.

In Zone 10 (hello, fellow San Diegans!), during Spring that means about 1 full 16oz glass of water per plant each week should do the trick. When the summer heat hits, bump that up to twice a week.

But here's the thing - your specific soil and location matter. If your plant looks droopy, give it more. If the leaves are yellowing and the soil feels wet, you're overwatering. Tomatoes are picky divas who don't like to go dry between waterings but will throw a tantrum if their roots are soggy. This can cause a plethora of problems from blossom end rot to cracked fruit to outright plant death.

Now, if you're using a drip system - which is truly the ideal solution for consistent watering - I'm not going to dive into the endless details about emitter types, gallons-per-hour calculations, and spacing. There are too many variables for a simple guide. Just know that drip is the gold standard if you're ready to level up your garden game.

For those using a garden hose, water at the base of the plant using a gentle spray. Avoid that high-pressure setting you'd use to strip paint off your house! Overhead watering is a big no-no with tomatoes since wet leaves can lead to fungal diseases that will have you googling "why do my tomato leaves have spots" at 2am.

But here's something crucial I've learned through painful experience: even if the surface of your soil looks wet and moist, you never know what's happening deeper where the roots are. Always dig down about 6 inches to check if water is actually reaching the root zone. The number of times I thought my soil was fully saturated only to find it bone dry just beneath the surface is astounding. Make this soil-check part of your routine until you get comfortable with your specific watering needs.

My obsessive tip? Use a moisture meter. As a gardener who spent hours researching the perfect watering schedule, I can tell you that this $10 tool has saved me countless hours of anxiety. Test the soil early on as you figure out the right amount, but don't stress too much - you'll find your rhythm. Just remember to stick with it - you will be rewarded with a bounty of luscious tomatoes for your efforts!

The Sun Situation: "Full Sun" Is A Lie (Sort Of)

When you buy tomatoes at a nursery, they all say "Full Sun," but did you know that's actually defined as just 6+ hours of direct sun per day? And we all know that San Diego sun is completely different from, say, Seattle sun.

During our summer months, we can get 15+ hours of intense sunshine that would make even the most sun-loving tomato beg for mercy. So while tomatoes do like a lot of sun, a light shade cloth overhead or a spot that gets some afternoon shade when temps climb above 90°F will help your plants from getting crispy and stressed.

I learned this the hard way after watching my "full sun" tomatoes literally cook on the vine one particularly brutal July. Now I use 30% shade cloth when temperatures soar, and my plants reward me with extended production well into fall. Yes, yes, I realize that shade cloth is an entirely other topic so more on that in another blog post (eventually).

Thinning: Sometimes Less Is More

As your tomato plant grows, it's going to get bushy. Like, really bushy. And while all those leaves might seem like a good thing, they can actually create problems by limiting airflow and creating the perfect humid environment for diseases.

It's best to keep the leaves off the ground so that water doesn't splash up and cause disease. Simply bend the stem up and down until it breaks off (it's oddly satisfying). You can continue to thin a few stems a month throughout the season, including any bottom, yellowing leaves. This will create better air flow, but only break off stems BELOW the first (or current) set of fruit.

Confession time: I personally single-stem my indeterminate tomatoes, snipping off all of the new "suckers" that grow within the "elbow" of the main stem and a leaf. This isn't something I'd recommend to beginners without research, but it allows for less chaotic/more manageable growth and larger, more flavorful tomatoes. It's also incredibly satisfying for personalities who like order and control (guilty!).

Staking: Those Flimsy Store Cages Are Useless

Your tomatoes can grow anywhere from 6-10 feet high! Those store-bought cages that look like upside-down lampshades? Completely useless by mid-summer. I wasted so much money on those things before I learned better. They are good for peppers though.

I recommend using a string trellis, single wood stakes, or a panel of wire (chicken or cattle) on one side and use string or twine to tie the main stem to the stake . I've tried all sorts of methods, so see what works best for your space. The most important thing is that you help keep the main stem from bending or breaking under the weight of the fruit. (Yes I know, another important topic for the blog!)

There's nothing more heartbreaking than hearing that "crack" sound one windy afternoon and finding your tomato plant snapped in half just as it was loaded with green tomatoes. Learn from my pain.

Fertilizing: Food For Your Food

This is a big topic (and I could write an entire post just on this), but here's what you need to know: tomatoes are heavy feeders. Unless your soil is incredibly rich in compost, it's best to purchase an organic tomato fertilizer and follow the instructions.

Think of this as vitamins for your plants. If your soil isn't great, it's like feeding them junk food and expecting them to grow big and strong. Without proper nutrients already in the soil, fertilizer is a must.

I typically fertilize when planting and then every 3-4 weeks throughout the growing season, cutting back once fruit production is in full swing.

The Final Word: Consistency is Key

If there's one thing my journey from plant murderer to successful gardener has taught me, it's that plants respond to consistency. Create a schedule for watering, thinning, and fertilizing - and stick to it. Your tomatoes will reward you with an abundant harvest that makes all that planning worthwhile.

And when you bite into that first sun-warmed tomato, still hot from the garden, you'll understand why I became so obsessed with figuring out how to grow "just one tomato plant" during those long Covid days at home.

Now get out there and give those tomatoes the care they deserve!

Have questions about your tomato plants? Drop them in the comments below, and I'll do my best to help you troubleshoot. Remember, I've probably already killed a plant in exactly the same way you're worried about, so I've got plenty of firsthand experience with what NOT to do!